The man’s style has its rules and our bon ton experts intend to enforce them: discover them all and follow them!
Is there a set of fixed rules on masculine elegance? Answer is yes: the sartorial style comes from a set of almost mathematical unwritten laws. The width of the tie, the knot, the choice of materials and accessories, the hem of the trousers, the measurements of the jacket: everything is regulated by the axioms that make personal style resemble geometry. But it’s not all as severe as it seems. Over the years even the tailoring suit has experienced its small revolutions, and the commandments of elegance today are actually advices, which are better to follow anyway.
The unmatched suit
Men love the so-called “unmatched suit” which allows them to be elegant but at the same time have a more carefree look than what the classic suit gives. But are you sure you know all the rules concerning the unmatched suit? Here are 5 rules to follow:
- The jacket has four buttons, the buttonholes are also handmade on the wrists and can also be worn with tailored jeans. When wearing the jacket, always remember that the first button should not be tied. In the 3-Buttons jackets the one in the middle is buttoned, in the 2-Button jackets only the first one. No variable is allowed!
- When choosing the jacket, keep in mind that the two-button model is recommended for people of short stature, as it makes the figure more slender. Twins are indispensable if you wear a tuxedo or tight.
- Even if it’s very hot, the jacket must never be removed. The white handkerchief in the pocket is to be worn only after 6pm.
- When wearing the suit in a formal setting, the allowed colors are black, gray and blue; beige or ivory can only be used in summer. The vest is considered an extremely elegant accessory and is recommended only on formal occasions.
- Always match the unmatched suit with the right shoes; if the event is a wedding or a ceremony it is mandatory to go for a light-colored Oxford shoe. See all DIS Oxford DIS. If instead the occasion is less formal you could also choose a sneaker. See all DIS sneakers.
The right pantsTrousers are an important part for any outfit and must be chosen carefully. It is essential that the trousers fit perfectly. Do not think of buying trousers, even if only slightly, bigger and fix it with a belt! tThe belt is not an object to support trousers but an accessory to be worn with style, just like the shoe.
Are elegant trousers with or without cuffs?
The lapel is present in an elegant daytime look or in an informal look, for the evening instead the pants are strictly with a smooth bottom. Don’t put your hands into the pockets as this gesture deforms the pants. Socks must be matched with the color of the dress.
But how to choose the belt for an outfit?
The belt must strictly match the color / leather combination of the shoes.
The real elegant shirt
Striped shirt: despite the classic striped shirt has always been worn for sports outfits, today it is very popular even in less formal work contexts. To have a less formal look at work, wear a shirt with a club collar with rounded cuffs. The button-down shirt is sporty, it should never be buttoned on the neck and cannot be worn with a tie, but only with jeans, unmatched suits and blazers. Collar and cuffs of the shirt must be visible.
Formal shirt: an elegant shirt, to be worn in a formal setting, always has a predominant white or light blue shade. Better to opt for a shirt without pockets and with an Italian collar, suitable for the tie. If you want to dare and give your outfit an extremely elegant look, apply cufflinks!
Shirt for the weekend: the shirt for an aperitif with friends should NEVER be white. The buttoned collar is ideal, as well as the club collar if you are a creative one. Leave the tie at home, and enhance your look with an accessory, like an informal shoe in bright colors.
The use of the tie clip is allowed, as well as other 2: wedding ring and watch. Braces are considered very chic by etiquette and must be worn without a belt. A beautiful watch, perhaps vintage and ultra-flat, is the best precious accessory for a tailored look. Better to avoid macro models.
The knot of the tie
The tie is an important accessory and it must be chosen carefully. Let’s see how:
1- When the event is formal, the use of the tie is mandatory. But what kind of tie to wear? For formal events the right tie to wear is the one in neutral colors: blue, gray, mauve are the most suitable tones for such occasions. Patterns such as stripes or small designs are not prohibited but it is recommended not to go overboard with too flashy ties. If you want to stand out at a job interview or at meeting with your boss, you could opt for a silk tie, which will give shine to your outfit.
2- For an informal date, the knitted tie goes perfectly with a cocktail look, with a blazer or light chino pants and with a casual cotton shirt, better if with a button-down collar.
3- For a wedding, elegance and class are everything. Choose a slim silk tie. If you want to stand out, you could wear a tie that reflects the color of your partner’s suit, if the tones are not too flashy, of course.
The tie must always have the perfect knot, no matter what type as long as it is always well knotted, with the wider blade, the external one, which just covers the belt and the shorter internal tail. The tie is either removed or the knot is kept intact. Loosening it causes a sloppy effect, a lack of elegance. Tie and handkerchief in the pocket should NEVER be of the same pattern.
In the pocket of the jacket, preferably with a boat cut, a silk handkerchief looks very good, of different shades depending on the occasion, never folded square but always inserted with great naturalness and with the tips out.
A beautiful leather bag can give style to an elegant look, but it can also be very practical. Better to keep your keys, smartphone and other items in your bag, instead of deforming the pockets of your pants.
The shoe must always be well polished and preferably with monogrammed initials on the heel. Of course it is advisable to choose a laced shoe such as an Oxford or a Derby. Sneakers are not banned, they can be worn, but only with a sports day dress, without tie. Shoes must be matched with the color of the belt.
The finishing touch: the elegant coat
The coat is the final touch to complete a perfect outfit. But even the coat has its rules.
It’s not enough simply to dwell on the choice of color but there are other important factors to take into consideration such as: model, fabrics, length.
Among the elegant models we suggest: the Chesterfield coat, the Loden coat (typical student model) and the Ulster coat, designed for those who love more formal elegance and suitable for all business contexts.
Regarding colors and fabrics: for the day, a patterned model is better, for the evening it is better to choose a dark blue or smokey grey. The businessman’s choice is Melange Thindown (flannel covered with a further layer of Thindown), Soft Italian wool, cashmere.
The length is also key: long coats are often the choice of men who love a classic, traditional and formal style. It is preferred by tall men, in order to compensate their height. The coat with length above the knee, is instead suitable for younger men, who love a more dynamic and less formal look as well as for people of smaller stature.